Used Control Arm
Request a VIN-matched quote for a used Control Arm. Availability, condition, warranty, and shipping are confirmed for your exact vehicle before purchase.
- ✔ Used-part options
- ✔ Add your VIN for fitment review
- ✔ Review warranty terms in the quote
- ✔ Confirm payment method before purchase
Part Details
Your quote request is reviewed against your vehicle details. Before buying, ask for the condition description, mileage when relevant, warranty terms, shipping cost, and final price so you can compare the available options.
Quote status: Live stock and public prices are not displayed. Request a vehicle-specific quote to review the available option and its final terms.
Compatibility: Multiple makes & models
Condition & Quality Standards
Condition grading and inspection practices vary by part and source. Before purchase, request the available condition description, mileage information when relevant, photos, and any inspection or test notes.
About This Control Arm
Ordering a used control arm goes wrong in three places, and none of them is the price. First, position: arms are catalogued by corner and by height - front or rear, upper or lower, driver or passenger side - and a multi-link rear axle carries more than one arm per wheel, so one rear axle can mean four separate part numbers. Second, what is already in the arm. On many modern cars the ball joint is riveted or pressed in at the factory with no means of removal, so it cannot be serviced alone and the complete arm is the only way to buy it; where the joint bolts or clips in, a bare arm is a genuine option. Third, material. Some platforms were built with two or three arm designs that do not mix - GM 1500 trucks used cast steel, cast aluminum and stamped steel arms, the cast steel version takes a smaller-diameter ball joint, and each style pairs with a knuckle of matching material. Send the VIN and the corner and we will settle all three before you commit.
Want the full picture before you buy? Read our used control arm buying guide.
Before you order, it helps to read:
Common Signs Your Control Arm May Need Replacing
- A knock or clunk from one corner as you pull away or brake
- Steering that wanders and needs constant small corrections
- One front tire wearing on its inner or outer edge
- Torn or cracked rubber visible in the arm bushings
- Play at the ball joint when a shop levers the wheel
Symptoms vary by vehicle and driving conditions. Always confirm diagnosis before replacement.
What to Check When Buying a Used Control Arm
- Name the exact corner - front or rear, upper or lower, and which side; each is its own part number
- Say how many arms that corner uses - multi-link rear suspensions have several per wheel
- Ask whether the ball joint is riveted or pressed in - if it is, the arm is the only way to buy it
- Confirm cast steel, stamped steel or aluminum; ball joint diameter and knuckle material follow the arm design
- Inspect for torn bushings, a split ball joint boot, corroded eyelets and any sign of a bent arm
- Have a licensed mechanic confirm the corner first, and book the alignment with the fitting
Ask for these details and any available photos before approving a purchase.
What Happens After You Request a Quote
- We review your vehicle and part request
- Provide your VIN or full vehicle details for fitment review
- Review the available condition, warranty, shipping, and price details
- You decide — no obligation to buy
Response time depends on the part, vehicle information supplied, and current sourcing options.
Popular Vehicles for a Used Control Arm
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Availability & Quote Details
- Live stock and public pricing are not displayed for this Control Arm
- Available condition, fitment, warranty, shipping, and final pricing are confirmed only after we review your request
- Ask for warranty and return terms in writing before you buy
- Shipping options are confirmed for the destination and part size
Check Current Availability
We do not display unverified stock records. Send your VIN or year, make, model, and original part number so a specialist can confirm exact fitment and the options currently available.
How Pricing Is Determined
Pricing for used control arm depends on several factors:
- Vehicle year, make, model, and engine configuration
- Mileage and overall condition of the donor vehicle
- Supplier location and shipping distance
- Warranty coverage offered
Four things move a control-arm quote: position, since upper arms are usually smaller and simpler than lowers; whether the arm is quoted bare or complete with the ball joint and bushings already pressed in; the material; and whether you need one side or the pair. A complete arm reads higher on the quote and often costs less installed, because pressing a joint into a bare arm needs a press and the right sleeves and adds shop time. One thing works in your favor: suspension interchange usually spans a wider band of model years than body panels, roughly four to eight on the same platform, with drivetrain layout the main divider, so a donor need not be your exact year. We do not display prices. Request a quote and review the written terms first.
Confirm the final price and fitment basis before approving a purchase.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a used control arm come with the ball joint and bushings already in it?
It depends how your vehicle was built, so ask before ordering. Where the joint is riveted or pressed into the arm at the factory with no obvious means of removal, it is an integrated, non-serviceable unit and the complete arm is what gets sold. Where it is held by bolts or a retaining ring, the joint is a separate part and a bare arm can be quoted. Standalone bolt-on and press-in joints are more common on trucks and older SUVs; integrated assemblies are typical of modern cars. Confirm which you are quoted - bare versus complete decides the labor as much as the part.
Are left and right control arms the same part?
No. Driver-side and passenger-side arms are catalogued and sold separately, exactly as front and rear and upper and lower are. Give us the side when you ask for a quote. If a shop says both sides are worn, ask for the pair - they wear at a similar rate, and doing one corner now and the other later means paying the alignment twice.
My truck has aluminum arms and I found steel ones cheaper. Will they fit?
Do not assume so. On GM 1500 trucks the cast steel suspension uses a smaller-diameter ball joint than the cast aluminum and stamped steel setups, and each arm style pairs with a steering knuckle of matching material, so the groups are not interchangeable. Identify what is actually fitted to your truck, or send the VIN, rather than going by model year alone.
I hear a clunk over bumps - is that the control arm or a sway bar link?
Both can, so get the corner isolated before you buy an arm. A worn sway bar link makes a metallic clunk over bumps, and its symptoms overlap other worn steering and suspension parts. A bad control arm is usually described as a solid clunk, and it comes with vague steering and uneven tire wear. A shop moving each joint finds the loose one quickly.
Does a used control arm have to be tightened with the car on the ground?
Yes. The rubber bushings have to be torqued at ride height, with the vehicle's weight on the wheels. MOOG's bulletin is blunt about why: torqued with the suspension hanging, the arm sits at too steep an angle, which adds excessive load, twists the bushing and leads to premature wear or failure. Confirm your installer does it that way.
My ball joint came loose in the knuckle - is a used control arm enough?
Not necessarily. MOOG's control arm instructions say the steering knuckle must be replaced in any case of a broken, bent or loose ball joint stud, because a stud seated in a worn or deformed taper can break and let the wheel separate. Have the knuckle taper inspected first, and plan for a knuckle as well as an arm if the joint had gone loose.
How do I know a used control arm from a wrecked car is not bent?
Usually not by eye, so plan on a professional inspection. NAPA says suspension arms and tie rods can bend in a pothole hit, that the trouble is often felt before it is seen, and that it turns up as tires wearing unevenly and steering that pulls to one side - which is why it advises a realignment and assessment after any hard impact. Ask the yard for photos of both bushing eyes and the ball joint boot.
How is compatibility verified?
Provide your VIN or full vehicle details so you can review the fitment basis in your quote before approving a purchase.
What if the part does not fit?
Most suppliers offer limited return or exchange options. Warranty and return terms are confirmed before purchase.
How long does shipping take?
Shipping time varies by location, part size, and freight arrangement. Confirm the dispatch and delivery estimate in your quote.
